For two weeks last fall we explored some of the incredible ancient ruins of southwest Turkey, which is home to some of the world’s best-preserved Greek and Roman architecture. To give some context to our exploration of the ruins, I want to first share a broader perspective on our experience in Turkey.
The people of Turkey were amazing - warm, friendly, and genuinely welcoming. Their hospitality and kindness left a lasting impression on us and made our trip even more special. Yet what really stood out during our visit were the visible signs of life under an authoritarian government. This was our first time in a country that isn’t some version of a democracy, and it was palpable from the moment we arrived.
One of the first things we noticed was the overwhelming number of Turkish flags. They were everywhere - lining the streets in every town we visited. I’ve never seen such a strong display of national pride. Along with the flags, we also saw huge banners of President Erdoğan hanging along streets and in public spaces. These larger-than-life images felt unsettling, reminding me of other authoritarian leaders throughout history who left a lasting impact, often at a great cost to their people.
While these symbols were a clear reminder of Turkey's political realities, the kindness and generosity of the Turkish people eased any unease we initially felt. Their warmth and hospitality were a striking contrast to the more imposing visual symbols of the regime.
Now let's talk about the incredible ruins we explored in southwest Turkey. These sites are some of the best-preserved examples of Greek and Roman history anywhere in the world! Their massive size, detailed craftsmanship, and historical significance were truly impressive and unforgettable highlights of our trip. Wandering through these ancient spaces felt like traveling back in time, and being surrounded by the stories and culture of ancient civilizations whose impact is still felt today.
Our journey began in the ancient city of Selçuk, where we visited the Basilica of St. John and the nearby Ayasuluk Fortress. The Basilica, built in the 6th century AD by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, is thought to be the burial place of St. John the Apostle. Even in ruins, the site retains a sense of grandeur. The massive columns, intricate carvings, and remnants of archways hint at how impressive it once was. Walking through the site felt meaningful, given its deep spiritual and historical importance.
Above the Basilica sits the Ayasuluk Fortress, which offers incredible views of the countryside and illustrates the importance of this location throughout history. Built during the Byzantine period and later used by the Seljuk Turks, the fortress is steeped in layers of history. As we wandered through its walls, we couldn’t help but imagine the people who lived and defended it centuries ago.
From Selçuk, we made our way to Ephesus, which surpassed all our expectations. Once a major city in the ancient world, Ephesus was a hub of trade, culture, and religion during Greek and Roman times. Today, it stands as a sprawling archaeological site, home to some of the most well-preserved ruins anywhere.
One of the most impressive landmarks is the Library of Celsus, a stunning piece of Roman architecture that once held over 12,000 scrolls. Its beautifully carved facade and perfectly balanced columns make it a true masterpiece. Standing there, it was easy to imagine the scholars and citizens who gathered at this center of learning.
As we walked along Marble Street, lined with the remains of shops and public buildings, we felt as if we were stepping into the daily life of ancient Ephesus. The Great Theatre was another highlight, with its massive seating capacity of 25,000 and remarkable acoustics. It wasn’t difficult to picture grand performances or spirited debates taking place there.
Other unforgettable sights included the Temple of Hadrian, decorated with intricate carvings, and the Terrace Houses, which offered a glimpse into the luxurious lives of Ephesus’s wealthy residents. These homes are adorned with stunning frescoes and mosaics that have been carefully preserved, showcasing the artistic sophistication of the time.
What makes these sites in Turkey so extraordinary isn’t just their historical importance but how well they’ve been preserved. Unlike many ruins in other parts of the world, where only foundations or a few scattered pieces remain, these sites still have much of their original beauty and grandeur. The sense of scale, the detail in the carvings, and the way these structures have withstood the passage of time is nothing short of incredible.
When I visit ancient ruins - especially ones as well-preserved as those in Turkey - it feels like stepping back in time. It’s as if I’ve walked through a doorway into another time, leaving the modern world behind. The experience is almost surreal, as if the present moment fades, and I’m transported to the bustling streets and thriving communities of the past. Even in their ruined state, the buildings seem to hold echoes of the people who once lived there - their dreams, challenges, and the world they built.
Researching a place before visiting - learning about its traditions, innovations, and struggles - makes the ruins feel alive in a powerful way. It’s no longer just about ancient stones and buildings; it’s about imagining the people who once lived there. As I walk through, I can almost hear the echoes of the past - merchants talking, tools clanking, and children laughing as they play
Walking through these ancient sites filled us with a deep sense of awe and respect for the civilizations that built them. Places like the ruins of Ephesus, the Basilica of St. John, and the Ayasuluk Fortress are more than just historical remains - they are powerful reminders of human creativity, skill, and resilience. Visiting them gave us a deeper appreciation for the amazing legacy of the ancient world, and it was truly an unforgettable and enriching experience.
Thanks for sharing your beautiful pictures, short film and insights about Turkey, it's people and of course the ruins.
What a detailed and beautiful pictorial account. Thanks.